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- Makeup
- Face
By
Updated on July 09, 2024 12:33PM
Reviewed by
Ashley Rebecca
Reviewed byAshley Rebecca
Ashley Rebecca is an NYC-based makeup artist and a regular contributor for Byrdie covering makeup, skincare, and haircare.
Contributing Writer and Makeup Artist
In This Article
Prep Your SkinLet Your Base DryApply Your Moisturizer ProperlyYou Need to ExfoliateChoose the Right ShadeFactor in Your Skin Type
Pick the Proper FormulaAvoid Using Too Much ProductConsider Your LifestyleSet Your FoundationTouch Up Throughout the Day
If you're a makeup wearer, you probably already know that as the base, your foundation formula is a crucial step that creates the literal foundation for the rest of your makeup to sit atop. It also is the only product that goes all over your face rather than in a certain spot. So, there's really no room, for error. But, there's one big problem that lots of us can relate to: foundation that looks cakey. Maybe you've figured out what works for you to keep this from happening, but if you haven't, we're here to help.
There are several factors to take into account. Like are you using the right makeup for your skin type? This is especially important for people with dry or oily skin, but will help inform your choice no matter your skin type. And with a product with as many offerings as foundation, the formula you're using plays a big role, too. For instance, a liquid foundation may be better for you while a powder is better suited for someone else or vice versa. Plus, are you applying it right? You have to consider how much of each product you're using, as applying too much can lead to pilling and caking. Of course, you also have to think about skin prep and whether or not you should be touching up your makeup throughout the day.
To help solve the very common foundation faux pas of caking, we enlisted a board-certified dermatologist and two professional makeup artists. They share exactly what we should be doing to have smooth and natural-looking foundation that lasts all day. Their insights, below.
Meet the Expert
- Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist with MDCS Dermatology in New York.
- Lori Taylor Davis is a professional makeup artist and the global pro lead artist for Smashbox.
- Nick Lujan is a professional makeup artist and the global head of education and artistry for Kevyn Aucoin Beauty.
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Prep Your Skin
There’s a reason why makeup artists suggest running through a proper skincare routine before applying any face makeup products.
“A lot of how a foundation looks on the skin has to do with how we prep the skin to receive makeup,” says professional makeup artist, Lori Taylor Davis.“If the skin surface is dehydrated, textured, [or simply] not at its best, this can change how makeup lays on the skin. That’s why skin prep is the key to ensuring that your foundation has a skin-like finish and never looks cakey. ”
With that in mind, Davis says that proper skin prep should include at least a moisturizer and primer. “Both products can help to alter the surface of the skin, helping to create the maximum perfected surface to receive foundation,” she says, noting that this is true for any skin type.
To minimize how many products you use, there are a few multi-tasking picks we love. For example, Live Tinted's Hueguard is a primer, moisturizer, and SPF 30, while the French girl must-have, Embryolisse's Lait Crème Concentré is a go-to base for countless celebrity makeup artists.
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Let Your Base Dry
Just like dermatologists recommend letting your serums and moisturizer dry before applying sunscreen, makeup artists suggest the same for pre-foundation primers and moisturizers.
“Always allow your skincare or primers to rest a moment before proceeding to apply foundation,” says professional makeup artist, Nick Lujan. “I like to redistribute any moisturizer or primer from areas that didn’t absorb or set before applying foundations.” Doing so will prevent caking as well as pilling, so it’s a win-win.
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Apply Your Moisturizer Properly
If you think that simply applying any old moisturizer will magically transform your skin and help you avoid cakey foundation, think again. Since dry skin tends to repel product, Lujan says that it’s important to not only use a moisturizer but to properly apply it, too.
“Applying a good hydrator (water-based lotion) prior to a thicker, more nourishing cream will help plump up the skin, while the cream creates a more glowy and nourished look to the skin,” Lujan explains. “This hydration and even skin texture create the perfect canvas for applying any style of foundation.”
Still, if you find that even after following Lujan’s lead your foundation looks cakey, they say it’s an easy fix. “Try adding a couple of drops of your skincare into your cream or liquid foundations before applying."
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You Need to Exfoliate
While moisturizing and priming play an important role in the end look of your foundation, dermatologist, Marisa Garshick, MD, says that exfoliation does, too. “Those who have a build-up of dead skin cells and don’t exfoliate regularly may find their foundation appears cakey,” she says. As such, if you’ve been moisturizing and priming but still aren’t satisfied with how your foundation is laying, it’s worthwhile to add exfoliation to your pre-makeup prep and regular skincare routine.
There’s no one right way to exfoliate, either. You can add exfoliating acids to your skincare routine (which help to gently slough away dead skin cells by dissolving them), or opt for a physical exfoliant.If you prefer chemical exfoliants, we love Drunk Elephant's T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial and Glow Recipe's Strawberry Smooth Serum which both contain alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs).
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Choose the Right Shade
Sometimes it’s not so much about your skin prep as it is about the specific foundation you’re using. According to Dr. Garshick, caking can occur when you’re using the wrong shade of foundation, as it simply looks unnatural, and thus caked on.
To avoid this potentially cakey experience, it’s important to think about your undertones when selecting your foundation. By knowing if you lean cool, warm, or neutral, you’ll be better suited to pick the foundation that best fits your complexion. Thankfully, many makeup brands have caught on to the fact that skin tones vary widely, so there are plenty of shades to choose from.
For a particularly natural-looking face makeup look, Dr. Garshick recommends reaching for Ilia’s Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40 . “Because no anti-aging regimen is complete without sun protection, this lightweight serum foundation provides broad-spectrum SPF 40 coverage using zinc oxide, as well as a blend of hyaluronic acid, squalane, and niacinamide to help hydrate and soothe the skin,” she explains. “It also comes in so many shades, making it easy to find a shade that matches your skin tone.”
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Factor in Your Skin Type
In addition to thinking about your skin tone when selecting your foundation, it’s also important to consider your skin type. “The underlying skin can impact how foundation appears as it may not layer easily in those with dry or irritated skin,” Dr. Garshick explains.
This, of course, brings us full circle to the idea that a quality skincare routine is a must if you want to wear foundation. That said, Dr. Garshick adds that looking for specific foundation ingredients can also help.“Those with dry skin may benefit from foundations with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, or liquid formulations." Similarly, she recommends that those with heavily irritated skin (think: acne, redness, and general textural issues) go for color-correcting foundations, as well as those with more mattified end looks.
“Wander Beauty's Wanderlust Powder Foundation is particularly useful for someone with sensitive skin as it delivers a natural matte finish without drying out the skin since it starts as a liquid and transforms into a powder,” Dr. Garshick shares, noting that those with blemishes and dark spots may also benefit. “It helps to absorb excess oil, while also improving the appearance of redness, discoloration, and melasma, which can commonly occur in those with sensitive skin. It is lightweight and contains hyaluronic acid and aloe so it is both hydrating and soothing.”
Meanwhile, she says that those with particularly dry skin can fare well with IT Cosmetics's Your Skin But Better Foundation + Skincare. “This foundation incorporates a blend of hyaluronic acid, aloe vera extract, vitamin E, and B5 making it good for all skin types, but especially for those with dry skin,” she explains. “It helps to deliver long-lasting hydration while providing buildable coverage, improving the overall complexion.”
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Pick the Proper Formula
There’s a time and a place for a full-coverage foundation. That said, it’s typically not every day. “As a makeup artist, I like foundations that mimic skin and that look hydrated and slightly glowy,” Davis shares. For everyday use, she says that tinted moisturizers, like Smashbox’s Halo Healthy Glow Tinted Moisturizer, provide ample coverage. “The natural glow looks like perfectly hydrated skin. Pairing a product like this with a primer, especially one of Smashbox’s Silkscreen Primers, is a one-two punch for perfected skin that never looks cakey, dry, or textured.”
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Avoid Using Too Much Product
Another possibility is that you’re simply applying too much foundation. “This seems to be the most common reason for cakey foundation,” Lujan says. “Applying too much product can lead to an uneven application—especially if you are using a powder-finish product. Too many layers of powder finish tend to make the skin look textured/dry. Also, the layers tend to repel each other, creating a blotchy appearance and camera flashback.”
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Consider Your Lifestyle
If you’re someone who likes to wear foundation but also likes to run around at a million miles a minute, Dr. Garshick says that it’s important to find a foundation that can hold up.“The L'Oréal Paris Infallible 24 Hour Freshwear Liquid Foundation provides long-lasting buildable coverage and is sweat-resistant,” she says, adding that finding a foundation for your lifestyle is paramount. “It is easy to apply and leaves a natural finish.”
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Set Your Foundation
What you do after applying your foundation is just as important as what you do beforehand. That’s why Lujan always recommends a setting product to ensure your foundation stays looking its best. “When it’s time for a setting powder, be selective in your placement and how much you use,” they say. “Load your brush with loose powder by dipping the brush in the powder, give it a good tap, and press and roll the brush over areas of texture or oiliness first. Then, press and roll the brush over the rest of the face.” We love Givenchy's' Prisme Libre Loose Setting Powder as it leaves a natural-looking matte finish while also bringing all skin tones to life. If any extra powder remains on the face, Lujan says to dust it off using the same brush.
Alternatively, you can set your makeup with a gripping setting spray for a glowier finish. We swear by Urban Decay's cult-favorite All Nighter Waterproof Makeup Setting Spray and Morphe's Supercharged Continuous Prep & Set Mist which also acts as a primer.
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Touch Up Throughout the Day
Unfortunately, you can do everything right and follow every step to a "T" and your makeup can still cake over the course of the day. This mainly happens in the under-eye area, as the skin there is much thinner and it's constantly moving thanks to facial expressions and eye movement. A quick fix is to lightly spritz a moisturizing mist that breaks down any buildup and dissolves excess makeup and residue. Look for products with ingredients such as squalane and hyaluronic acid and that have a light mist (so you don't accidentally spray your face with a bunch of liquid and ruin your makeup), such as Tatcha's Luminous Dewy Skin Mist.