When gel manicures first hit the salon menu, they became an instant phenomenon because they're quick to achieve and durable as car paint. The promise of a shiny, chip-free paint job that'll last for two weeks? That's why we typically opt for gel whenever we treat ourselves to a salon manicure (althoughat-home gel kitsare available too).
Still, a gel manicure isn't without its faults, specifically related to its drying process and potential damage to nails as well as skin—but are these allegations warranted? To find out more, we tapped professional manicurist Sarah Gibson Tuttle and dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D. Whether you're a diehard gel fan or just tired of ruining your polish when you reach in your bag for your phone, we're answering all your questions about gel manicures.
Meet the expert
- Sarah Gibson Tuttleis the founder and CEO of nail care brandOlive & June.
- Joshua Zeichner, M.D., is the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in NYC.
Keep scrolling for our expert-approved guide to this alternative polish.
What Is a Gel Manicure?
Like your run-of-the-mill mani, a gel manicure starts with cutting the nails, lightly soaking the hands, trimming the cuticles, and a thorough hand-cleaning. The polish itself is where things get different: You'll start with a base coat that primes your nails for the gel. This is a special kind of polish which, instead of air-drying, sets under a UV light. After each coat is painted on, you place your hand under a UV light for 30 seconds. The technician will finish things off with a glossy topcoat that's also set with a UV light.
Benefits of a Gel Manicure
Stacked against a regular manicure, gel nails:
- Last longer
- Feel stronger
- Stay shiny
For those of us who are impatient and maybe a little clumsy (raises hand), the quick drying process will ensure you don't smudge your fresh set. Also, anyone can get a gel manicure, whether you have natural nails (long orshort) or prefer to use gel tips.
How Long It Lasts
Generally, a gel manicure can hold up two to three weeks. Just like with your regular polish, how you treat your hands post-manicure and throughout those two weeks will make a big difference in staying power. "If the gels are not chipping, leaving gel polish on for two to three weeks is fine," says Tuttle. "But like with all lacquer, breaks between manicures are a great way to ensure your nails stay strong and healthy."
The Cost
The price of a gel manicure can vary depending on where you live and the caliber of the salon you're visiting. Typically, you can expect a gel manicure to be priced $5 to $10 more than a regular polish manicure. Because it's a process in itself, salons may also charge for removal. Some salons do it for free with the price of your next manicure, but it can cost up to $20.
How to Remove
Taking off gel polish requires time, patience, andno picking. Whether you're getting gel taken off at the salon or DIY-ing it at home, here's how to remove a gel manicure.
- Cover each nail with an acetone-soaked cotton ball, wrapping aluminum foil around each finger to hold the cotton in place.
- Let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes.
- Remove the foil and cotton balls. The polish should slide off the nails without any filing or scraping.
- For any stubborn spots, use a wooden stick to gently scrape off leftover nail polish.
How to Avoid Damage
Take Your Time With Removal
One of the biggest myths about gel manicures is that they're bad for your nails. In reality, how you remove gel polish can be damaging. "More often than not, it's the removal process that's weakening your nails," explains Tuttle.She notes that a lot of salons rush through the removal process.
Don't File or Buff Your Nail Bed
Filing and buffing your nail beds is often what creates cracks and rough texture, says Tuttle. "It's not always easy to spot right away because clients often follow gels with more gels or polish." But if you leave your nails naked, so to speak, you'll easily spot this damage.
No Picking, Ever
If you're removing gels yourself, the one thing you should never do is pick or peel the polish off. It's a surefire way to cause damage, and it can mess with future manicures. "Picking off your gels removes layers of your nail along with it. Plus, it makes it harder for future polish and gel to stay on," says Tuttle.
Tuttle recommended applyingcuticle oilbetween appointments to keep the area hydrated and healthy. This will protect the skin around your nails as well as your actual nail beds.
Risks and Safety of UV Light
The major criticism of gel manicures is that the UV lights you put your hands under (to set the gel polish) can cause premature aging and put you at a higher risk for skin cancer. It turns out there is truth to this.
"The ultraviolet light emitted from these dryers is actually much stronger than what you would get from sun exposure," says Dr. Zeichner. "UVA light is responsible for both skin aging and the development of skin cancers. If you are going to get gel manicures, it is important to applysunscreento your hands for protection."
Gel Manicures vs. Acrylic Nails
Considering cost, maintenance, and the health of your nails, gel manicures seem to win overacrylics. Although acrylics allow you to alter your nail shape and length and don't require UV lamps to cure, compared to gel nails, they require more upkeep and come with a heftier price tag.
The Bottom Line
It's completely up to you whether you decide to get acrylics, gel tips, or a gel manicure. After all, the whole point of nail art is for it to make you happy. That said, gel manicures are often longer-lasting than regular polish and cause less nail damage than acrylics. If you've never gotten a gel mani before, then why not give it a go?
