On warm nights in Istanbul everyone is out. Restaurants open their doors onto the sidewalks of back streets, creating a maze of tables and chairs. Waiters dance around the diners with bottles of spirits and plates of food while customers sing along with live musicians. On the coast, old hobbyist fishermen spread carpets, grill the day’s catch and drink from Turkish teacups as they talk. However, it’s not beer at the tables or black tea in those delicate glass cups. For celebration, commiseration or just an evening around the table with close friends, rakı is the alcoholic beverage of choice in Turkey. Also known as Lion’s Milk, this drink has an almost mystical reputation for shattering social niceties and piercing through to the soul.
About three hundred years ago, rakıproduction first appeared in Anatolia. Alcohol artisans began to use the waste of wine pressing, the grape seed, stem, skin and flesh, to concoct this new spirit. All these centuries later, most rakıis now made from dried grapes with the addition of anise seeds, and has become a mainstay of Turkish meyhane (bar) culture. The most expert of imbibers can sit the whole night eating and toasting and never dropping the thread of conversation.
New arrivals to Turkey will soon find themselves out with friends eager to give them their first taste of this strong drink. It’s best to be prepared for the situation.
DO drink rakıwith white cheese, melon and other mezzes. Most experienced drinkers know that alcohol should be enjoyed with the accompaniment of food. There are two reasons for this. One: Alcohol on an empty stomach irritates the stomach lining which can cause more discomfort later on in the night or the next day. Two: Food helps to slow down the rate of alcohol absorption. At a rakınight out, the mezzes are numerous and tasty, ranging from cured meats to roast eggplant in olive oil. Because these small dishes are meant to be shared, there is no harm in trying a little of each. According to Turkish rakıexperts, white cheese, in particular, is essential as it guards the liver from the damaging effects of alcohol.
DON’T drink rakıstraight. While this is possible, the results may be swift and punishing. Rakıalcohol percentages begin at 45 and can continue rising from there, putting it among the ranks of absinthe in strength. For a longer, more comfortable night and happier morning, do as the Turkish do and dilute.
DO dilute with water or mineral water. At most restaurants and bars rakıcan be ordered tek (single shot) or duble (double shot). The remainder of the special high ball glass is filled with cold water and often ice. For home refreshment, having this glass on hand to get the measurements right is advisable. Using mineral water in the mixture instead of flat gives an almost candy licorice flavor burst and effervescent tickle on the tongue.
DON’T chase rakıwith anything but beer or coffee. Like most strong spirits, rakımustn’t be mixed with other alcoholic beverages. Drinking in such a way triggers malicious chemical reactions in both the stomach and head that can last long into the next day. Experts agree that a small glass of beer or coffee can do no harm, but they prefer water.
DO drink rakıcold. At more traditional meyhanes the waiter brings straight rakı, in a glass or bottle, to the table along with a bottle of cold water and a bucket of ice. According to custom, the drinker than fills the glass with water and ice according to their taste. It is wise to follow the same procedure at home. The difference between drinking chilled and room temperature rakıis something like the contrast between drinking from a mountain spring and having a glass of warm tap water.
DON’T overdo it or chug your drink.Rakı culture demands respect for the company present at the table and for your own health; it’s never a race to the bottom of the glass. Drinkers should only sip with the aim of relaxing, not getting stupid drunk. It is also useful to note here, especially for novices, learn your limits and be wary of them. Rakı‘sstrength may affect one drinker swiftly and another slowly.
DO drink rakıamong friends.Rakı‘sstatus as social lubricant means sharing the bottle, not drinking in some lonely corner of the bar. Even a rakınight among a group of strangers is guaranteed to end with close bonds and friendships.
DON’T be ashamed.Rakı‘s fame for breaking down inhibitions means emotions and ideas related when under rakı‘sinfluence should not cause embarrassment. Even bursting into song is quite common and acceptable.
DO serve with fish. While many believe the most sophisticated pairing with seafood is white wine, rakımakes a refreshing change. The licorice sweet taste offsets the salty tang of the fish, bringing out the best flavor of both drink and meal.
DON’T use electronic devices at a rakıgathering. Conversation is key to the enjoyment of rakı. Everyone sharing the bottle should have all devices stowed away in pockets or bags with their whole attention focused on the discussion and learning the refrain of the song being played.
DO find the type that fits best. Different rakıproducts have distinctive tastes and percentages; testing a variety of bottles to discover your preference is part of the initiation into the culture. Each brand also has a more expensive, often green-labeled bottle, called yaş üzümü or fresh grape. This rakıis made from fresh grapes as opposed to dried, and is distilled twice before resting. It has a fruitier taste than regular rakı.
While Istanbul hangs on to the last days of summer weather, why not gather a group of friends at a rakısofrası. Şerefe!
Special thanks to my rakıteachers Deniz, Kaya and Kerem.
How do you prefer your rakı, dear readers? Do you have a favorite brand? Let us know in the comments. Also, we gotta ask, are there any şalgam enthusiasts in the audience?
Meridith Paterson is a traveler, writer and teacher who has been wandering around Istanbul for six years now. More of her musings and stories can be found at www.meridithpaterson.com.
