Imagine wearing history. Rebecca Rau's 'Then & Now' collection does just that, transforming ancient artifacts into breathtaking, wearable art. This innovative approach blurs the lines between museum exhibit and personal adornment, offering a unique connection to the past. But how does she do it? Let's dive in!
Rebecca, a New York-based designer and fourth-generation antique dealer, unveiled her collection at M.S. Rau, her family's prestigious New Orleans gallery. Her deep roots in the world of antiques have given her a keen eye for sourcing exceptional pieces. She says that designing jewelry has been a way for her to express her creativity. It's also allowed her to indulge her passion for colored gemstones.
'Then & Now' is a stunning fusion of the old and the new. Rau meticulously selects genuine historical artifacts, some dating back as far as 1200 BC to 1880 AD, and masterfully integrates them with contemporary elements like modern gemstones, precious metals, and pearls. The result? Each piece is a one-of-a-kind treasure.
The designs themselves are a fascinating interplay of masculine and feminine aesthetics. Rau often works with objects that have a more masculine feel, like raw bronze artifacts, and softens them to make them more wearable and approachable. She wanted to make these ancient objects feel less serious and more alive.
Some artifacts have a known purpose, like a wheel-shaped bronze seal stamp from 1200 to 800 BC, which was used to mark documents or goods. Others remain shrouded in mystery. As Rau puts it, she embraces the ambiguity, acknowledging that the full story of these ancient objects may be lost to time.
At the heart of the collection is the Reimagined Jasper necklace. This Renaissance-inspired statement piece features a 1st-2nd century AD cut brown-jasper fragment, accented by unheated orange zircons and Umbalite garnets. The necklace is completed with Tahitian gray pearls and an 18-karat yellow gold French book chain from around 1865.
The Glowing Glass necklace features a rare Gothic pendant of early glass and high-karat gold from 14th-century Europe. It's suspended from a modern 18-karat paperclip chain, bridging the gap between past and present.
The Protectrice necklace reimagines a 13th-century Spanish gilt-bronze harness, possibly once part of a noblewoman’s girdle or a horse’s ceremonial armor. It's adorned with an 11.68-carat no-heat pink tourmaline and Tahitian baroque pearls.
The Criss-Cross necklace takes inspiration from a Bactrian amulet, a votive wheel symbolizing the sun and celestial motion, dating back to around 1200 to 800 BC. The wheel is surrounded by pink spinel, rubellite tourmaline, and sapphire, anchored by a baroque South Sea pearl. It hangs from a Victorian lariat chain, turning a relic of devotion into a modern jewel.
The process is a delicate balancing act. Rau is committed to preserving the integrity of each artifact, from the ancient Bactrian amulet's vivid green patina to the delicate luster of high-karat gold. The gemstones can be removed, allowing the artifacts to return to their original state if desired. She also faces the challenge of finding skilled jewelers who understand her vision and can work with such rare and fragile materials.
Many pieces incorporate handmade antique chains, chosen for their craftsmanship and quality. The scarcity of these chains reflects the passage of time. Rau fears that many have already been melted down for their gold.
'Then & Now' is just the beginning. Rau is working on several other pieces. She is fascinated by the allure of ancient objects and the human desire to adorn oneself with jewelry. She sees her work as a conversation with the past and a reminder of the enduring tradition of jewelry, even in a rapidly changing world.
The official launch of 'Then & Now' will take place during NYC Jewelry Week on Nov. 20 at the Jill Newhouse Gallery on the Upper East Side. The collection’s retail prices go up to $36,500.
What do you think of this innovative approach to jewelry design? Do you find the idea of wearing ancient artifacts appealing? Share your thoughts in the comments!
